CAPT. BOB’S FIRE FIGHTER SELF-GUIDED WALKING
TOUR OF SAN FRANCISCO
www.SanFranciscoFFwalk.com
This site is dedicated to the men and women engaged in the heroic efforts to provide Fire, Rescue & E.M.S. protection. It's a TEAM EFFORT. Some of you are full-time paid first responders. Some are reserves, auxiliary, volunteer, neighborhood emergency response team, etc. Others find their calling helping first responders get the job done: chief officers, administration & education, fire prevention, fire and EMS communications, apparatus mechanics, equipment suppliers, fire buffs, etc. I SALUTE YOU ALL!
A SPECIAL DEDICATION: Santa Clara County Fire Captain Mark McCormack. He was electrocuted at a structure fire on Feb. 13, 2005. His kindness, intelligence, and dedication will truly be missed.
The following self-guided walk is from a retired firefighter to firefighters and others interested in San Francisco and firefighting. This is a not for profit site! I have not, in any way, been compensated for any endorsements, links, etc. There is no advertising. I researched, wrote, and set up this web site to share the city I love with my brothers and sisters who are engaged in this very noble cause.
Walking is definitely the best way to experience the city. You can see more on a video or tour bus but you will feel and experience the joy of the city much more by walking. This tour is along San Francisco's beautiful main tourist areas and can be easily walked by the whole family. It is mostly level and from 4-8 miles long. There will only be one small scenic hill (Telegraph) to walk up in the first 5 miles. You should plan most of a day.
| Summary of San Francisco walk | Other Favorite Places | |||
| Start at Embarcadero B.A.R.T..... | Pg. 2 | S.F Fire Museum......................... | Pg. 8 | |
| Ferry Building ............................... | 2 | Alcatraz Ferry............................. | 8 | |
| S.F.F.D. Station #35................... | 3 | Golden Gate Bridge.................... | 9 | |
| Hyatt Regency Hotel.................... | 3 | Muir Woods............................... | 9 | |
| Cable Car Ride........................... | 3 | 17 mile Drive.............................. | 10 | |
| Fortune Cookie Factory.............. | 4 | Yosemite National Park.............. | 12 | |
| Chinese Fish Market.................... | 4 | |||
| S.F.F.D. Station #2....................... | 4 | |||
| F.F. Statue in Washington Sq..... | 5 | |||
| S.F.F.D. Station #28.................... | 5 | |||
| Coit Tower.......................End of Mi. 4 | 5 | |||
| Pier 39............................................ | 6 | |||
| Fisherman's Wharf.......................Mi..5 | 6 | |||
| Crookedest Street in the World... Mi.6 | 7 | |||
| Over Nob Hill to Downtown Mi 8 | 7 | |||
San Francisco is rich in fire history. The combination of high density (1.2 million people on a business day, 750,000 at night in 47.5 sq. mi.), hills, wood frame construction, no separation between many buildings, windy afternoons, no rain during summer, and earthquakes, makes San Francisco an exciting (and dangerous) place to be a firefighter.
1906 Earthquake and Fire: 0512 hrs April 18. With 450,000 people, San Francisco was the ninth largest city in the
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United States. at the time. Seventy-five percent of San Francisco was destroyed – most by fire. 28,000 buildings burned during the four days of fires. An estimated 3,000 people died, 200,000 people were left homeless. The earthquake was estimated 7.9 on the Richter scale. S.F.F.D’s 600 firefighters were severely handicapped with all major water supply lines broken. In addition, getting equipment to the scene was extremely difficult. Roads were damaged from the earthquake; gas pipes broken and ignited, water and sewage pipes broken and flowing. Injured people and debris was everywhere. Triage? By all reports S.F.F.D. performed heroically.
Almost all of this walk will be through areas burned in the 1906 fire. With fireboats, unlimited water supply, and good exposure distances, the Ferry Building and piers were saved. To learn much more on San Francisco history see www.sfmuseum.org. A map of the burned area can be found at: www.sfmuseum.net/hist1/burned.html. For an excellent book on the earthquake and fire by one of our own Mr. Dennis Smith, former N.Y.F.D. and founding editor of Firehouse Magazine: SAN FRANCISCO IS BURNING, The Untold Story Of The 1906 Earthquake And Fires. Published by Viking in 2005. He described San Francisco as having “beautiful physical geography”.
2006 San Francisco Fire Department overview:
1700 uniform personnel
42 stations, 10 Battalions, 4 Divisions (one is at the airport)
42 engines, staffed with 1 officer and 3 firefighters
18 trucks, staffed with 1 officer and 4 firefighters
18 ambulances with 1 medic& 1 E.M.T. They respond to E.M.S. and urgent
hospital transfers.
18 specialty pieces of equipment (fireboat, mini-pumpers, haz. mat., etc.)
Typical downtown first alarm response:
3 engines, 2 trucks, 1 Asst. Chief, 1 Batt. Chief, 1 hose tender
Second alarm:
4 more engines, 1 truck, 2 Batt. Chiefs, 1 service squad, arson unit.
At the 5th alarm the total should be:19 engines, 7 trucks, 1 asst. chief, 6 Batt. Chiefs, 1 hose tender, 1 service squad, 2 rescue squads, 1 arson units, and a C.D. unit.
Standard complement for S.F. engines:1500 G.P.M. pump, 500-gallon tank
1000’ of 3” hose, plus hand lines. For lots more information go to: www.sfgov.org
For security reasons, water supply will not be discussed. Ask the firefighters.
START OF WALK
Embarcadero Station of Bay Area Rapid Transit. (B.A.R.T.) If you are on foot, bus, etc. the station is located at Market & Spear streets.
From the B.A.R.T. train: Go up 2 levels (first floor is S.F. municipal railway). Exit Spear & Market (exit is toward the bay-east)
Walk 1½ blocks east to the Ferry Building. Ferry Building is at the end of Market Street with “Port of San Francisco” sign visible through the palm trees. The sign is facing away from you, on its roof. The street you will cross is named the Embarcadero and its walkway named Herb Caen Way after a local Pulitzer Prize winning columnist and author who died a few years ago
Stop # 1- Ferry Building
Before the bridges were built in the 1930’s, this was one of the busiest ferry terminals in the world serving up to 50,000 people a day. It is full of quality shops and has several nice restaurants-some with outdoor seating in the rear. If you like the strongest coffee around it’s Peet’s coffee inside. There is a small Farmers market Tues and Thurs. on the street side. On Sat. there is a large farmers market both in the street and bay sides (sides A & C). Go through the building to the bay side and see how many San Francisco workers commute to work!
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From the bay side, walk around the south side (toward the Bay Bridge), and then go back out to the Embarcadero (street).
Turn right and walk south (toward the bridge) 150 yards to pier 14. Walk out on this new pier (June 2006) which provides a feeling of being on the bay because of its open sided design. Continue south toward the bridge on Herb Caen Walk for about 400 yards. Notice the unique artwork. One is called “cupid’s arrow.”
Stop #2. San Francisco Fire Station # 35, Pier 22 ½
Fireboat staff: 1 fire officer, 1 pilot (driver), 1 marine engineer
Eng Co. #35 Staff: 1 officer, 3 firefighters
Fireboat #1 Phoenix 89’ long, pumps 12,500 GPM
Fireboat #2 (reserve) Guardian 89’ long, Pumps 25,000 GPM.
Note the unique engine-fireboat signs above the apparatus door. E-35 responds to all normal engine company responses. If Engine 35 is assigned on a detail, another engine company responds with the fireboat on an emergency incident.
For great fireboat incidents see www.sffiremuseum.org/fireboats.html
Retrace your steps back to the ferry building along the bay.
Turn and walk on the north (right) side of Market Street about 1 block to the intersection of Market, California, and Drumm Streets.
Turn North (right) on Drumm Street and walk along the hotel driveway for 100'.
The Hyatt Regency Hotel has the most dramatic hotel lobby in the bay area. Please don’t judge it by the outside.
Stop # 3 Hyatt Regency Hotel
Go up 2 escalators and look around the lobby. The glass elevators go up 17 flights. During the Christmas season a beautiful 150’ curtain of multi colored lights is hung from the ceiling with a lovely Christmas display in the lobby. There is a revolving restaurant at roof top level that doesn’t open until 5 PM. You can get a coffee or smoothie in the lobby restaurant for $5.00. The menu is posted at the entrance. Proceed back to the cable car.
Cable cars were America’s first mobile National Historical Landmark. Created by Andrew Hallidie, a Scottish wire rope manufacturer, as a way to traversing the city’s hills. The first cable car line began operation on Aug. 2, 1873. Three lines are now in operation. Two start at Powell and Market and go to different parts of Fisherman’s Wharf. The California Line, you are getting on, almost never has a wait..
HINT: BE QUICK TO GET GOOD LOCATION: My favorite location is standing on the cable car running board in the extreme front, curb side (hotel side) of the cable car. Note: this cable car (unlike the other two) doesn’t have a turntable to turn around the cable car. That means it goes forward from both ends of the cable car. So if you see it pull in, you will it will be going back up the hill rear first. If you ride on the street side of the cable car, watch out for cable cars coming the other direction every few minutes. If there is no room to stand up outside, wait for the next cable car! As a kid (many moons ago) I was told it was against the rules for women to stand on the outside of the cable car. So sisters, enjoy your freedom. Pay the conductor $5.00 per person, age 5 and over. Ask a stranger to take a group picture. Some cable car drivers can make music from their warning bell. When moving, ask and you might get a performance. Get off in 8 blocks at at Stockton Street.
Walk north (down) Stockton on the right (east) side of the street, about 150’. Near the railing you will see a set of stairs: go down the stairs. You will be at the north end of the Stockton Street tunnel.
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Go north up Stockton Street for 2 ½ blocks to Washington Street.
You are now in Chinatown, which is one of the largest Chinese settlements outside of Asia.
Turn down (east) on the left side of Washington St. about 200’.
Turn left (north) into Ross Alley which used to be called Gamblers Alley. It had big iron gates on both ends which would be closed at the first sign of a police raid. Chinatown has many safe and interesting alleys. Walk down Ross ¾ of the block. On the right (east) side at # 56 Ross Alley is:
Stop # 5 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Co. 9 a.m. to midnight
Go inside and watch how fortune cookies are made. Check out how many varieties of fortune cookies there are. Best deal: buy a bag or two of the flat cookies-sorry, no fortunes in the flat ones. They taste the same and you get an awful lot for a few dollars. Worst deal-if that funky hand made sign is still up to pay $.50 to take a picture of the ladies making cookies-tell them you are buying cookies and take all pictures you want.
Upon exiting Golden State Fortune Cookie Co. go to the right (north) on Ross Alley within 100’
turn left up (west) on Jackson St. ½ block until Stockton. Cross the street and
turn right (down) north on Stockton. 100’ later stop at 1117 Stockton St.
Even though it is crowded-all the time, walk inside and look around. See the types of fish and animals for sale. An interesting part is what is for sale in the crates.
I have heard the Chinese (wisely) believe that in order to buy fish and animals that are fresh and healthy, it is preferable for them to be alive. For a smaller fish market, with fewer types of fish and interesting crates, continue north to 1135 Stockton. Continue down Stockton St about 100’.
Turn left (west) and go up Pacific Ave. Note: on the left side, in the middle of the block is a colorful building with Chinese letters. Also note across the street you can see the side of a high rise (10 or more stories) modern type apartment building. Both are San Francisco public housing. A local parking attendant told me that each has 80-90% Chinese-American people living in these buildings. Many people living in Chinatown cannot speak English. I would guess Chinatown is San Francisco’s most recent immigrant neighborhood-or at least the largest non-English speaking community. Continue up Pacific Ave. to the end of the block.
Turn right (north) on Powell St. One half way down the block on the right side is
Stop # 7 San Francisco Fire Station #2, 1340 Powell Street
Battalion 2- a chief officer
Eng. 2: 1 officer, and 3 Firefighters
Truck 2: 1 officer, and 4 Firefighters
This station sells T-shirts, hats, etc.
It’s a surprisingly large 3-story station (1 story is underground-but that’s another story-oops). Station #2 has 2 brass fire poles.
Exit station to the right (as you face away from the station) - go down (north-away from the cable car) on Powell for 3 ½ blocks. You are now entering the North Beach District -it used to be a predominately Italian neighborhood.
Turn right (east) on Union St. Cross Columbus Ave. to Washington Square.
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Turn left down Columbus Ave, in the park you will see:
Volunteer Fire Dept of San Francisco 1849-1866.
The city burned 5 times between 1849 and 1852. These volunteers had some major fires!
The statue was built from monies donated by Lilly Hitchcock Coit
Washington Square was featured in several movies. Lots of quality Italian restaurants and bakeries surround the square. It also has nice benches for weary legs.
Continue down Columbus Ave. to the first corner - Filbert
Turn right (east) on Filbert St. Notice the beautiful Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral.
Turn left (north) at Stockton, which will be the first street. Go north 1-½ blocks and you will see
E-28 One officer and 3 FF’s. One of the firefighters is a paramedic
Medic 28 – 1 EMT and one paramedic. Personnel rotate with the engine company.
This station also has a brass fire pole. They sell their own regular station 28 tee shirts. In addition, they have an Italian colored logo on ball caps and t-shirts with Telegraph Hill and Coit tower on top of it. It says “vennito” which the guys inform me means 28 in Italian. Have any Italian-American friends?
Exit the station to the left - south on Stockton St. (direction you came from).
Turn left (east) at Filbert Street. Walk up Telegraph Hill. Keep an eye out for a flock of wild parrots (under 100) that live in the area. It is the only uphill of the walk and one of the best San Francisco views is awaiting you. It’s all downhill from there. Filbert Street continues up as steps. Cross the street and a few more steps to the top of the hill. Go to the Bay Bridge (south) side first. Then to the tower
This tower looks suspiciously like an old fire nozzle but wasn’t designed to do so. It was built by the city with funds donated by Lilly Hitchcock Coit. She was a lifelong big fan of the fire department. She was an unofficial member of Vol Company # 5 known as the knickerbockers. She responded to alarms, had her own helmet, uniform, and gold Vol. Badge. She was reported to been buried with her gold badge.
Go inside the tower even if there is a line outside. The line is for the elevator to the top. Inside are unique murals painted in the 1930’s. The elevator to the top cost $3.75. Its not worth waiting if there is a long line. Instead, go to the north end of the parking lot, in front of the Christopher Columbus statue,
and stand on the cement blocks (like everyone else) and enjoy the beautiful view of San Francisco for as long as you want. Take lots of pictures. You can see from the Golden Gate Bridge to the Bay Bridge. Alcatraz Island (please see other trips #2 below) is in front of you. Beautiful Marin County is north past the Golden Gate Bridge. The hill on your left (west) is Russian Hill. Look for the “crookedest street in the world” on it.
After viewing, go to the Oakland (east) side.
Walk south (toward the Bay Bridge) past the street signs 000 block of Telegraph Hill & 360 Greenwich St. about 200’ until you see the 350 Filbert Street sign.
Turn (east) down the driveway for 50’. Just past the blue top hydrant you will see a set of steps going down.
Walk down approx. 85 steps to upper Montgomery St. Walk down 33 steps to Lower Montgomery St., and down 41 steps to Darrell Walkway.
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Turn left and walk north 50’ on Darrell
Then down the Filbert steps to Napier Lane.
Walk the 200’ on Napier Lane to step into the old west. The fire missed this section.
Walk down the remaining steps to Sansome St.
Hint: If your group goes across the Sansome Street to the steps leading to Levi Straus Plaza (an extraordinarily well designed office building complex), if you squat or go down the few stairs, you can get a great picture of your group with the stairway and Coit Tower in the background.
Walk north (that’s a left coming from the stairs) two blocks to Herb Cain - the Embarcadero.
END OF MILE 4. There is a " F" light rail train muni railway stop at Sansome and Embarcadero. It’s the only train that runs on that runs here. Get on the train going to the right (south toward the Bay Bridge). Deposit $1.50 per adult (they accept bills). Ask the conductor to announce the Ferry Building or wherever on Market Street you want to get off.
Hopefully you will continue by crossing the street and walk northwest (away from the Bay Bridge) on the Embarcadero.
Within a few hundred yards you will pass Pier 35. This is where in 2006 14 cruise lines, have 28 cruise ships leaving on 88 cruises to British Columbia, Alaska, Mexico, Hawaii, thru the Panama Canal to Ft. Lauderdale, or the South Seas. That makes it much easier for us locals to cruise. For you out of the state folks, it’s also a good excuse to visit us.
Continue walking NW a few hundred yards more to:
Pier 39 has regularly scheduled performances by entertainers and plenty of street artists and lots of shopping. The schedule for entertainment is on a pole near the entrance. Observe all the fire protection built into this pier. There is a nice carousel at the end of the pier. The hidden jewel for me is going to the far west (left) side of the pier, even with the carousel. There are hundreds of wild Sea Lions only 30’ away. They are nicknamed “Sea Lion-ebrities”. There are fewer in summer because the large males commute to Santa Barbara where the mature females stay all year. In the fall, the mature males rejoin the immature males and immature (2-5 year old) females. A docent gives scheduled talks and a non-profit group runs the nearby bookstand. The sales person was very knowledgeable.
Proceed in the N.W. direction along the bay. Note the Blue & Gold Alcatraz ferry. See trip #2.
Continue northwest along the water walking
Turn left (South) on Taylor St. at Fisherman’s Grotto #9. Try to walk between the outdoor seafood sales and the restaurants. Enjoy the smell of fresh cooked Dungeness (our world class local) crab.
Turn right (west) on Jefferson St., it’s the first street. Notice the fishing boats. Many are sightseeing and/or party (individual or small group fishing) boats. For about $80-$95 You can go salmon or striped bass fishing, with 1 day-license, rod & reel rental, bait, and the boat ride They head out fishing very early. Other boats in the back of the harbor are small commercial fishing boats.
END OF MILE 5. To get back to the starting point, continue walking west on Jefferson Street ½ block. Turn left (south) on Jones Street. Near the far end of that block on the right hand side is where you catch the F Market streetcar. It’s an “old time” slow paced light rail return to the Ferry Building, and up Market Street if you parked at 5th and
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Mission. Put $1.50 in the fare box (it accepts bills). Ask the driver to announce the Ferry Building or your stop. If you are going to take a cab back ask the driver to take you down the “crookedest street in the world” on your way back.
Stop # 10 (the Crookedest Street in the World
S.F.F.D. www.sfgov.org.
B.A.R.T. www.bart.gov
Caltrain www.caltrain.com
Golden Gate Transit www.goldengatetransit.org
S.F. Muni www.sfmuni.com
S.F. Visitor Bureau www.sfvisitor.org
A few rules of thumb in San Francisco “the city”:
1. As Mark Twain said “the coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.” No matter how nice it looks or feels, bring a light windbreaker with you. The city is blessed with average high temps near or in the 60’s year around. If you are tired of the cold in the winter or the heat and humidity in the summer think of visiting San Francisco "everybody's favorite city". It’s rich in firefighting tradition also.
2. This tour takes you through some of San Francisco’s nicest neighborhoods. I would feel comfortable walking around alone at night. Please remember though, street crime occasionally happens in nice areas of your town, likewise in San Francisco.
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3. If you are coming into S.F. for one-day only, park outside the city and ride in. Parking in San Francisco is expensive and time consuming. Try not to drive over the S.F.-Oakland Bay Bridge. It’s consistently the worst traffic in the bay area. If you are coming into S.F. for the day from the south or east, park at BART outside the city and ride in. BART presently goes as far south as Fremont and Millbrae, as far eastward as Dublin and Richmond (for Richmond use the El Cerrito stop off I-80). Larkspur (north bay), Vallejo (off I-80) , and Alameda have scenic high-speed ferries to downtown. Best downtown parking lot is 5th & Mission Sts. Mission St. is the next street south of Market St., which is the main street in the city. Caltrain is a good choice for the San Jose/mid penin. Area: from the S.F Caltrain station:
Take the N street car to stop #2 (Sta. #35 at pier 22 ½ ) or if you want to add about a mile each way: walk east (toward the bay) on King St. until the Embarcadero. Turn left (north) on the Embarcadero and walk to stop #2, then #1, and then #3, 4, 5, etc.
4. If you get too late or tired to finish the walk, just look for a bus stop. Any bus driver will tell you how to get back to your starting point. Bus fare is $1.50 per person, 50 cents for kids and seniors (65 and over). Exact change is required but they take dollar bills. Taxis are plentiful, usually under $12.
5. A word about Brownouts. All of S.F.F.D.’s stations are not open every day. Because of budgetary constrains the city has chosen to close about 4 engine companies on a rotating basis, rather than permanently close some stations. However, the fireboat, trucks, and medic units are always staffed. Coincidently, you will visit three stations: one has the fireboat, one a truck company, and the third has a medic unit. Therefore, even if the station has a sign in front saying it is closed that means the engine company is browned out. A crew is still working at the station on the fireboat, truck, or medic unit.
6. Call me prejudiced, but if you are coming to see the bay area the most central and interesting location to stay is in San Francisco. The S.F.visitors bureau will mail you lots of info, maps, walking tours, and paid tours, at www.sfvisitor.org. If you like to hotel and shop higher-end stay in the Union Square/Moscone Center areas. I have recently discovered hostels. They are very much like older firehouses. They have nice people, kitchens, some private rooms, lounge areas with TVs, computers, etc. My wife prefers bed and breakfasts! There are many of both in San Francisco.
This walking tour should not be driven or biked. It has one-way streets in which we walk against traffic, a pedestrian alley, 4 stairways, and very difficult to park areas.
1. S.F. Fire Museum-1 hr.
655 Presidio Ave, San Francisco. A nice, several thousand square foot room addition on SFFD Station # 10. It has lots of old apparatus, helmets, other antique equipment. It is staffed by volunteers from the San Francisco Fire Department Historical Society-nice people. Station 10 has an engine, truck, and medic unit. Museum hours are Thurs-Sun. 1-4. Pictures of the actual exhibits and more info can be found at: www.sffiremuseum.org.
If you can only do one other San Francisco thing in addition to this walking tour, take the Alcatraz ferry. It’s a short calm ride. Alcatraz is run by the National Park Service. It is a beautiful place. May-Sept and weekends, you should try to make reservations days in advance. Don’t forget your windbreaker! It’s relatively cheap $16.50. includes the self-guided tour with headphones, boat ride over and back. There are more rip-offs with this than any other S.F. tourist event. Some tour companies require you have to purchase other tours to get this one. If you get here without any Alcatraz reservations in the high season, and only have a day or two, the cheap tickets may be sold out; you might have to go for a more expensive package to get out to Alcatraz. Bite the bullet and do it. The headphones make the tour more fun..
Alcatraz has no firefighting water supply-the hydrants are dry. When needed, a S.F. fireboat will charge a standpipe for the hydrants.
Once you get to the island ask when the next ranger or docent led tour is. If it isn’t for a while use your headphones first for the self-guided tour. For you folks that have been out there several times, sign up for the night tour-its different and spooky
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The next best thing to the Alcatraz tour, but a large step down, is to take the one hour bay cruise. The blue and gold fleet’s main competition, is the red and white fleet www.redandwhite.com located a few hundred yards past (N.W.) pier 39 on the Embarcadero. It lists for about $21. There are sometimes web discounts. The Blue and Gold ticket booth, told me their boats are quieter because everyone has wireless headphones to hear the tour guide.
3. Golden Gate Bridge - drive, walk, bike across - ½ day.
This lovely bridge has two 746 feet high towers that gracefully support the cables holding aloft a 4,200 foot long suspension span between them. It feels longer.
If you plan to use public transit, take the Golden Gate Transit #10. It starts at 1st and Mission Streets and has other stops. The cost is $2.85. per person. For an interesting virtual bridge walk without getting cold, go to www.goldengatebridge.org/photos/
If you want to drive, follow U.S. #101 North along Van Ness Ave, then West on Lombard St about 1.5 miles and follow the signs to the Golden Gate Bridge.
If you just want to walk on the bridge and don’t like driving in congested areas
then save the $5.00 toll and park on the S.F. side. The turnoff is just before the tollbooths. (please read about Conzelman Rd. below first) and bring a jacket.
If you want to drive across and walk on the bridge, drive across and take the Vista Point off ramp. A public bathroom is located there. Park there and walk back as far as you want. Pedestrians are permitted on the east side of the bridge only (follow the signs). It’s the best side for city and bay views. Note historic Fort Point almost under the south (S.F.) side of the bridge.
Once back in your car take the next exit (Sausalito), and proceed under the freeway as if you were going to return to S.F. For one of the best views of the city and an idea of why the bay area is so special, make a quick right turn up Conzelman Road as you are about to get on the #101 southbound. Stopping to enjoy the view, proceed to the top and over further into the Marin headlands.
Proceed northbound for a delightful little lighthouse at Pt. Bonita or to return
turn right on Bunker Road and turn right at McCullough to return to Conzelman Rd.
If you want to go to a nearby beautiful old growth redwood grove see trip # 3 below.
For biking this world class bike ride, a quick search of the web, it appears two bike companies specialize in this ride. They are www.baycitybike.com (415) 346-2354. which has great videos on their web site. Also: www.blazingsaddles.com (414) 202-8888. Prices were about $25-$45/ day. Locals park at the Marina Green at Marina Blvd. and Fillmore. I would recommend for people in average shape to ride across the Golden Gate Bridge and ride back, or and coast down to cute Sausalito. Maybe on to Tiburon, then the ferry back (under $7. with bike) from either Sausalito or Tiburon. It's unsafe to ride back up to the bridge from Sausalito. Bring a jacket.
For you stronger bikers, ride the Golden Gate Bridge, use the pedestrian underpass at Vista Point (if needed), ride or walk the approx. 1,000’vertical up Conzelman Rd. over the top to Bunker Rd. Continue Bunker Rd through the tunnel down into Sausalito. Or if you want to return via the bridge, turn right at McCullouch off of Bunker Rd. This will take you back to Conzelman Rd. If you aren’t very tired after this ride and are a paid or volunteer firefighter in California, the California Firefighter’s Olympics has both road and mountain biking events. You will be competitive! Consult the bike rental company or the bridge web site to determine the proper side of the bridge sidewalk to ride on. It varies with time of day, time of year, and weekday vs. weekend. One side is always available, sometimes both sides are open so you can bike over on one side and back on the other.
4. Muir Woods National Monument on Mt. Tamapais in beautiful Marin County. ½ day. It’s a 45 minute drive north of the Golden Gate Bridge or take a tour bus. www.visitmuirwoods.com. This is a lovely 295-acre canyon full of gold growth (never logged) redwood trees. See 1,000 year old redwood trees towering 260’ high in a lovely setting. From the parking lot you only have a very short distance to walk. The monument’s main paths are flat and paved. There is a $3.00 per person entrance fee. Unfortunately, there is no public transportation to get there. It’s a scenic 12 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge. Lots of tour buses combine Muir Woods with a stop in Sausalito in a ½ day.
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5. 17 Mile Drive on the Monterey Peninsula and the California Coast - 6 hours driving round trip, plus stops. One very long day or a nice two-day trip. Even in two days you won’t have time to do all the following fun things:
Drive south on Highway #1 first stop 55 miles south of S.F. Ano Nuevo State Park- www.anonuevo.org/. The northern elephant seals are 14’-16’ long with females weighing up to 2,000 lbs, and males up to 5,000 lbs! In the winter there are hundreds on the beach and you can often get up to 25 ‘ from them. You will need to walk about a mile from the parking to see the seals. Try to have reservations Dec 15-March 15th. That’s when the mature males and females are there. Females, immature elephant seals, and pups are there much of the year. This is a state park and has a small entrance fee. Continue driving south for about 35 more miles to
Santa Cruz has the best year around surfing in the mainland U.S. www.santacruz.org. Getting hungry? A good full-menu restaurant that is consistently voted the best burgers and fries is Carpos at 2018 Mission Street. Hwy #1 becomes Mission St. as you enter Santa Cruz.
Turn right at Swift Street (it’s the second light unless you are going to Carpos which is 3 blocks past Swift on the left). Drive ¼ mile west on Swift Street.
Turn right (at the first stop sign) driving north on Delaware St. Drive about 1/4 mile.
Turn left (west) on Swanton Blvd. Swanton dead ends at West Cliff Dr.
Turn left and drive south on this beautiful West Cliff Dr for 4 miles. You are driving into Monterey Bay. Stop at the little red lighthouse on your right about 2 miles after you started on West Cliff Drive. From the lighthouse, which is the first surf museum in the world, you can observe Steamers Lane (the old steam boats used this lane to deliver and pick up supplies at the wharf). It’s the biggest surf and also the best surfer viewing area I have ever seen. Continue east along Monterey Bay. West Cliff Drive flows into Beach Street. You will drive past the best beach boardwalk in California. There is no admission charge. If you want to do some sunning or surfing, the boardwalk’s beach is the warmest on the whole trip and they rent surfboards, wetsuits, etc. nearby.
After the roller coaster Beach Street flows 90 degrees left into 3rd St .
Turn right at Riverside Ave (the first street from the right.) Go over the San Lorenzo River and turn right at San Lorenzo Blvd.
Turn left at Ocean Ave (4th street on the left) Drive east on Ocean Ave about 2 miles
Turn right at the highway sign for Watsonville. Get on highway #1 freeway southbound.
If you are hungry and want an upscale deli/bakery take the Bay Ave exit in about 6 miles.
Also at Bay Ave is another Carpo’s on the east
side next to the highway at this exit. For Gayle’s Deli/bakery go ½ a mile on
Bay (west) toward the water. It is on the left in the small shopping center just
past Capitola Ave.(2nd stop sign). My favorite is the wheat sourdough French
bread. Ask them to slice the round.
Drive #1 south for about 35 miles until you are about a mile before the big
smokestacks just before the bridge over Elkhorn Slough to
Kayak on Elkhorn Slough
www.elkhornslough.org. and
www.montereybaykayaks.com If you are not tired of seeing marine
mammals, turn right into the parking lot of Monterey Bay Kayaks. If you ever
wanted to try ocean kayaking (in calm waters) stop! You will probably kayak
among sea lions, harbor seals, sea otters, with baby sea gulls, pelicans,
egrets, ducks, and lots of other birds. Talk to them about your need for a
lesson. The rental price is $30.single, $25 double per person. It includes all
the equipment - splash jacket, life jacket, etc. Because they are ocean (sit on
top) kayaks it is more difficult to tip them over. They come with a rutter for
easy turning. One warning, ask about the tides, don’t go too far in if you might
have to oppose both the tide and the afternoon wind on the way back unless you
want an excellent upper body workout. Two person kayaks are easier for non
athletes because one person can rest while the other paddles.
Back on Southbound #1, continue south about 20 beautiful miles.
Take exit # 402B, Pacific Grove. Drive about 1.5 miles west on Del Monte Dr. and at Monterey’s Fisherman’s Wharf you can have the magical experience of year around:
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Whale Watching www.montereyinfo.org -drive past fisherman’s wharf take Foam St. and stop where you can see the water. Key point: look outside the harbor area. If there are medium size whitecaps or swells (rolling depressions in the water) don’t go out. If you go out and it is too rough, not only do you not see whales, but it is very cold so everyone goes inside the small rocking cabin, and one person gets nausea, and another…it wasn’t pretty. On my 10 trips out on calmer days I have always seen whales. It is a stunningly beautiful boat ride. You cruise past the aquarium and sometimes see part of the beautiful 17 mile drive from the water! Bring a jacket and sun block. If you go out and is too rough, not only do you not see whales, but it very cold so everyone goes inside the small rocking cabin, and one person gets nausea, and then another…its wasn’t pretty. If it is calm, go back to Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey and park your vehicle. If it isn’t calm, continue to Cannery Row. The whale watching boats are at the end of fisherman’s wharf. Call me chicken, but after my bad experience, I won’t go out most windy summer afternoons. If the conditions are marginal, but you want to go, park and ask people coming off the boats if they had fun. Costs appear to be $34 per person for a 3 hour cruise. If you are interested in California history, there is an old town just across from the wharf. Monterey was the first capital of California. There are restored buildings, etc.
After Fisherman's Wharf turn right on Foam Street
In a couple of blocks turn right on Reese. Reese turns into Cannery Row. Drive
Cannery row. At the west end is the
Monterey Bay Aquarium www.mbayaq.org . This
world-class aquarium is an amazing place. It has a relatively new play/learn
area for smaller children. You can happily spend many hours inside. Cost for
adults is $22.
Continue west along the water. You are now in the City of Pacific Grove. As you
drive along the bay the street name will change to Ocean View Dr. You are almost
to my favorite place to stay on the Monterey Peninsula is Borg’s Motel (831)
375-2406. It’s the next building past Lattitudes Restaurant, at 635 Ocean View
Dr. Weekend ocean front rooms are about $130 per night during winter and a
little more in summer. They have less expensive rooms but they are non-view. My
upscale preferring wife even likes it because of the view and location. At
beautiful Lovers Point, across the street small waves are breaking against the
sea wall. You can walk the uncrowded trails on the beautiful cliffs, or bike out
to 17-mile drive and Pebble Beach. This is the last commercial building for
miles, only beautiful houses, cliff side paths, and beaches. Best time of year:
mid April to early June, the ice plants turn the area a beautiful fuchsia. When you get to the lighthouse, you
are leaving Monterey Bay and are at the Pacific Ocean side of the peninsula.
Just past the golf course (not before) is Lighthouse Rd. If is Oct-early March
and you may want to see one of nature’s marvels,
Monarch Butterflies
www.pacificgrove.org. They
winter here by the thousands, flying up to 2,000 miles from Canada and the west
side of the U.S. Rockies. To see them
Turn left on Lighthouse Rd. Drive up Lighthouse Rd. about one mile,
turn right at Ridge Road. They are in a mini park just past the Butterfly Motel.
The monarchs are more active during the warm part of the day. If you detoured to
see the monarchs return to the coast.
Continue southbound. Ocean View Dr., it flows
into Sunset Drive.
Drive Sunset Drive until a couple of miles until you see the steet sign for 17
Mile Drive
Turn right on 17 mile drive and pay the $8.00 per car fee-its more than worth the price. It’s free on bicycle. Follow the signs. Want to play golf? Unfortunately, Pebble Beach is the most expensive public golf course in the U.S. at $425 plus $25. per person for cart fee. Ouch!
Drive beautiful 17 mile drive. There’s an OK deli with picnic tables at Pebble
Beach. Also a public bathrooms.
1537 hrs., May 31, 1987 an illegal campfire started a wildland fire inside 17 mile drive area. The conditions were exactly wrong for containment. It burned 160 acres and 31 structures causing an 18 million dollars loss. There were no serious injuries. All in May in a normally very cool and humid location. Big fires can happen anywhere!
Go out the Carmel Gate-you have seen the best
of the 17 mile drive. One block long Carmel Way flows into San Antonio Ave.
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Turn right on Ocean Ave. Drive two blocks down the dead end and park. You are at beautiful Carmel Beach City Park. Feel the ultra fine sand. You also get a different view of beautiful Pebble Beach Golf Course from the beach.
Drive up Ocean St. It’s the main street of very upscale Carmel By The Sea. Keep an eye out for Clint Eastwood who used to be mayor and still lives in town.
Now back to S.F. the quick way - about 2½ hrs. Go up Ocean St. about 2 miles.
Turn left on highway #1 north for about 30 miles.
Turn right (east) at highway # 156 in Castroville “the artichoke capitol of the world” for about 6 miles
Take highway #101 northbound to San Francisco
6. Yosemite National Park www.nps.gov/yose/. 4 hour drive each way plus stops. It’s a two day minimum for a pleasant trip unless you have two or more drivers and a lot tolerance for car travel. Gray Line, http://www.graylinesanfrancisco.com and others, have a Yosemite one day (12 hrs) bus trip for $115. They say it gives you 2 ½ to 3 hours in the park and includes the valley tram tour (see #3 below)
Yosemite has the highest waterfall in North America, third highest in the world. It also has three of the four largest waterfalls in the U.S. But it is a unique and special place without waterfalls (mid summer through early fall). The valley floor is at 4,000’ high with granite walls straight up to about 7,000’ high. The summer high temp. is in the 80’s. In much of the winter the valley keeps a little snow on parts of the ground. Best time of year for waterfalls: about the first week in May. By July some are barely flowing and late summer many are not flowing at all. That’s because it seldom rains during summer in California. Yosemite Falls (the big double falls you might have seen pictures of) and some others have a very small and sandy water shed area. When the snow melts in the spring and early summer, that’s the end of the water.
Over the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge, through the east bay, over the costal mountain range, through the Sacramento-San Joaquin Valley, into the foothills and up the sierra. Wow-what a lot of diverse geography. Highway # 120 through Oakdale is the shortest, fastest, and most scenic way to go except during or just after a winter snow storm. Then take # 140 through Merced.
On Highway # 120 be sure to stop by a hidden gem on the way called: Rainbow Falls County Park. Like the sign for the Marin County town of Bolinas, the locals usually remove the road sign. Its 13.3 miles past Groveland. It will be .2 of a mile past the left arrow to Cherry Lake Rd. sign. Turn right just before the cement highway bridge. Go down ¼ mile to the end of the road. Get out of your car and walk below the falls. There are a few picnic tables but the big attraction are the falls, swimming, and watching people jump off the 20’ high rock.
There is a $20 entrance fee per vehicle into Yosemite Park.
Book lodging on line( it’s so easy now) at www.yosemitepark.com or (559) 253-5635. High rollers like to stay at the Awahanee Hotel $370+. Visit the dining room during the day even if you don’t stay there. Mid-rollers stay at the Yosemite Lodge Motel $110+. I like staying in Camp Curry $73+. Cabins with baths are nice. The cabins without a bath have a large bathroom nearby. The tent cabins can get cold and noisy. Because they are the least desirable, for high season and weekends, without reservations months in advance, you may be lucky to get these. Hint: reserve a tent cabin, if that is all that is available, and keep checking back to upgrade. Camping is found at http://reservations.nps.gov/.
For wilderness luxury, hikers should investigate high sierra camps at (800) 436-7275 or http://www.yosemitepark.com/content2hdr.cfm?SectionID=30&PageID=70
Evenings are fun in the valley: the animals come out in the meadows, there are ranger led campfires, and plays at the visitor center. Don’t stay overnight out of the valley, in areas like El Portal, Wawona, or Groveland. The park is big and the roads are winding and only two lanes. The park has a 45 MPH speed limit and these areas require ½ hour to an hour driving each way to the valley plus usually short wait at the entrance gate.
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Yosemite has 5 fire stations in the park. Two are in Yosemite Valley, one in El Portal, Wawona, and Hodgson Meadow. Three of the stations have National Park Service, Dept. of the Interior crews. The Yosemite Valley Station is located ¼ mile past the village store, behind the visitors center. It has type 1,2,3,and 4 engines. The winter staffing is 3 personnel and a summer staffing of 5. They work M-F 8-5 and are on call other times and are backed up by 20-35 paid call reserves. El Portal and Wawona stations have similar paid staff but fewer paid call reserves. The Chief’s office is at El Portal. There is also a volunteer crew from the company that runs the hotels, restaurants, buses, and almost everything etc in the valley. They presently have 7 reserves staffing the type 1 engine behind the village store. The engine was purchased in the 70’s from Universal Studios who used it in making the old TV series “emergency”. On the apparatus room walls they have a large shoulder patch collection. They are still willing to trade. Hodgson Meadows has a seasonal wildland station staffed by U.S. Forest Service personnel, Dept. of Agriculture. They have a type 3 engine there. A helicopter is also in the valley during fire season. It's available for firefighting and other tasks.
For EMS, the park has one paramedic ambulance on duty. It’s staffed by employees of a Modesto Medical Clinic who also run the medical clinic in the Valley.
What to do in Yosemite National Park. So much to do, so little time. www.yosemitepark.com or www.nps.gov/yose/trip/activities.htm
The best part is just being there. It is breathtakingly beautiful!
Year around activities: hiking, rock climbing, camping, backpacking, wildlife viewing, and the most popular: relaxing.
Winter: downhill and cross country skiing, snowboarding, snow tubing, ice skating,
Spring-Fall: horse riding, rafting, easy biking, bird watching, swimming, fishing (poor), golf.
1. Park and take the free bus and your camera to the following:
2. Tour the visitor center. See the film and Indian village at the center.
3. Take the year around 2 hour, 26 mile valley tram tour. May – Oct it is open air. Bring a jacket. It cost $22 and leaves from Yosemite Lodge. Same day reservations are usually available. If you don’t have the time or money just ride the free bus on its circular route.
For food the best location is the stunning dining room at the Ahwahnee Hotel. The ceiling is 24’ high with full length windows framed in stained glass. Visit the dining room during the daylight even if you don’t eat there. The entrées cost $25-40, plus soups and salads costing $9-17 additional (ouch!). For good pizza and beer it’s the deck at Camp Curry! My choice for a daytime drink is the patio bar at the Ahwahnee Hotel. There are other bars, restaurants, cafeterias, a deli, and grocery stores throughout the valley.
For easy walks: "The Yosemite Prominade" If there is water flowing over Yosemite Falls - see Lower Yosemite Falls! From the Yosemite Falls bus stop go to your left (west) past the new bathrooms to the falls. Walk over the bridge past the falls a few hundreds yards to a paved walkway leading back to the bus stop. It's wheelchair accessible. Other walks: along the river or out on a meadow trail. For Yosemite Valley hiking information: http://www.nps.gov/yose/trip/valleyhikes.htm.
For hikes, #1 is the Mist Trail (bring a light raincoat, snack, and small bottle of water). This waterfall flows all year long. You will never forget it. It’s 2 miles each way and 1,000’ vertical. Plan 3+ hours. Many families with small children do fine. It’s not baby stroller friendly though. There is a good view (and turn around for too many) 2/3rds of way at the bridge. It’s a very civilized hike with a drinking fountain and normal bathroom at the bridge. An outhouse style bathroom is at the top. To get away from the great view and mob at the top of Vernal Falls go upstream about 100 yards past the lake, to the sunny granite waterslide area. Just go straight when the sign indicates turn right. Keep away from the water everywhere, especially above the falls. People die every year in Yosemite waters.
#2 hike is to the bottom of upper Yosemite Falls. It’s about the same difficulty as above, unless you continue all the way to the top. There are no bathrooms after the trailhead at Camp 4 campground.
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The toughest day hike is to the top of Half Dome. Its 17 miles round trip and 4,800’ vertical each way. Check online or at the visitor center to see if the trail is open, and information about this hike. If you have any fear of heights, this is not the hike for you.
Yosemite Valley is only about 5% of the park but gets 95% of the visitors. If you want to be in the beautiful high sierra, go to Tuolumne Meadows at 8,600’. It is the largest sub-alpine (has trees) meadow in the Sierra and is surrounded by 10,000’-13,000’ mountains. It’s a beautiful 55 mile drive from Yosemite Valley. A jacket is often nice during the summer. Tuolumne Meadows is closed by snow all winter and much of the spring and fall. There is a “hikers bus” from the valley to Tuolumne Meadows if you are tired of driving for $23 round trip. May-Dec for an excellent Yosemite Valley view and high country peek you can drive or take the bus to Glacier Point. The guided bus cost is $20 one way and $32.50 round trip. You can also hike the 4-mile trail from the Yosemite Valley to Glacier Point. Using the bus one way, you can hike either up or down the approx. 3,000’ vertical. Down is more popular.
Thank you for taking of the tour. It’s almost impossible
not to enjoy San Francisco and Northern California.
If you enjoyed the walk, please tell your friends
For people who don’t want to visit fire stations, an almost identical 2-5 mile walking tour, see web site www.sanfranciscowalk.com
Please e-mail your comments and suggestions so I can make our web site better.
at: bobromanoff@rcn.com.
One request: does anybody have the skills and time to do a digital map of this route?
Please e mail me if you can. Thank You
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